This is not mymodification to the Gold Wing radio.
The original wasdone by
This is just the way I did it to my radio on my 1997 GL1500SE
If you don't think you can, or want to do this yourself I recommend ,Jon Jambor Kennedy Technology Group, Incorporated they are a professonal eletronics shop specializing in Honda Goldwing stuff.
so here we go.........
Using a mini-DPDT 12V. Relay, run by SPST mini (or micro) switch, to operate the relay.�To add an AUX input for my �Ipod or CD Changer orDVD. I still have functioning CB-AM/FM-Tape with muting.
If you can solder you can do this.
�Tools and stuff used. Small tipped Pencil Style solder iron- Radio shack
4wire ribbon 30a - Radio shack
Relay�- Radio Shack 275-249 mini-relay DPDT 12v. 5 amp Totally sealed a must! �Switch Radio Shack 275-324Rubber Weather boot
small heat shrink
1/8� male stereo to RCA cable
Remove radio, and open up. You are going to need to remove the board. It�s easy.
Remove all the little brass colored screws from the board. 6. 1 in each corner and 2 in the middle.
Unplug all the connectors and remove the harnesses from the little white hold down clips and lift out the board.
Find the Long blue chip with the two caps beside it click on picture below.
These are the two caps to de-solder, the trickiest of the whole project. But really it�s pretty easy.
Flip over the board and locate the caps on the backside. I marked mine with a sharpie
We only need to pull the + legs of these two caps, so get the magnifiers out Theway I de-soldered them was. I take my hot solder gun clean tip. (It�s a small pencil type)
Heat the spot and the solder just flows on to the tip of the iron. Wipe clean and repeat
You will see the tip of the wire, get it loose, or use a de-soldering bulb to suck hot molten solder if needed.
Very carefully pull the legs back thru from the other side.
�Another way is to snip the leads close to the caps and just solder a New cap to the leads sticking out (get the numbers off the old cap.)
Solder a small piece of wire to the leg of the cap from the front side.
And then heat the spot on the backside while tugging on the wire pulling the leg of the cap out of the hole.
Here they are de-soldered and pulled thru.
Now we add the wires to these two legs and the two holes.
I used 2side tape to stick them to the FM chip for stability Youcan see my heat shrink on the 2 +legs of the caps I�m going to slide down latter,
�I all so used the 2sided tape and tape the wire down to the board to secure it.�
The Relay. I picked this spot to secure the relay to the board after soldering the connections to it. because there is nothing in this spot so it look like a good spot to me.
Wiring the Relay.......
Then the input wires (1/8� male stereo to RCA cable) with RCA ends cut off, are soldered to one end of the relay. (End farthestfrom coil pins) The 2 center pins go to the + leads of CAPS, and the2 pins closest to the relay coil pins, they go to the holes in the board.
You see the Black and the White wire from 1 Cap going to the one side of the double relayand
The Red and Green wires from the other cap to the other side of the relay.
�The coils of the relay are the two closest in the picture. The two wires, on the end of the relay, White and Green,
White one goes to the switch and the green one goes to ground. (J106)
�The two wires at the opposite end, those are the wires to the 1/8� male stereo plug that goes to theIpod.
Cut the RCA plugs off a cable and skin it back. White is one channel and Red is the other channel.
Tie the ground shield wires RT and LT together. They go to j106. (By the large blue cap laying on it�sside.)
Scrape the bar and Tin, I cut the shielding ground wire back a �� and tined. Then added a small green wire to it with a piece of shrink tubing to protect and ran it over to the ground (j106)
Get your grounds from j106.
12v from j125, (it�s located in themiddle of the board)
If you are doing the mod to an early type radio,RM1500 radio (1989), Bob Anderson has discovered that the ground to the relay should be taken from a different location. And recommends taking from the rf box, in the center of board. The one that's 1" by 3", or there-a-bouts. or we could ground the relay at one of the board mounting screws, as an alternative.
The Switch. .....
Remove the top cover.
Take off the knobs on the front of the radio. Take the screws out on the back side and lift off the top cover .There is 1 plug too..
I put my switch just above the Volume on/off knob off the radio.
When putting the switch there it�s got to go in tight in this little factory cut out in between the 2 screws,
Drill 1/8� hole then take it to a �� opening. I trimmed the area up a little with a Dremel tool. Put a dollop of silicon sealer and install switch.
Attach 2 wires to reach the Relay area. I used Black and White.
You can still get the Radio cover on.
I also got the rubber boot to waterproof the switch. (I found them on the Internet)
Reassemble the top cover Feed the wires back thru in the corner.
The White wire from the switch goes to one side of the coils on the relay
The Black wire from the switch goes to the 12v supply off �(j125) middle of theboard.
The other coil wire that�s the green one goes to ground (j106)
Scrape the bar a little. Tin it first, tin your wire and attach it to the bars
there�s the layout
Just tuck it all wires, I used 2sided tape to hold the relay down and the ribbon wire.
Tucked what I could in the harness holders.
I also covered the relay connections with electrical tape.
The 2 Black AUX input wires, I ran out the hole that has ascrew that hold the cover on in the neck area, make sure you choose the onethat�s on the left side of the radio when installed closest to the left pocketof the Faring. Cut the screw opening thru to the large plug opening to get theAUX plug thru.
Or installbefore soldering.
Run the cable out the end and install the cover.
Install Radio on bike.
I ran my input 1/8 stereo jack up to myleft faring pock and set my Ipod in there on something soft.
And your ready to jam with and AUX input with all the mutefeatures of the original radio.
Big thanks go to BobAnderson forfiguring this out.
Tip and Tricks:
"I really don't see using the switch much at all. I wired so that the AUX is on the "Normally Closed" contacts as I use the XM just about 99% of the time."
From Teun Pasterkamp
I tried your
modification for the aux input of my Goldwing 1500 SE (Build 2000) Radio and it
But I was not so pleased with the switch and the fact that the aux input was on the radio part.
It would be better, in my opinion, that the aux input was on the cassette part, so I spend many hours (without schematics) to figure out the cassette part and came up with a far more simpler solution.
The Aux input is done directly after the low noise amplifier to the (+) leg of the two capacitors (no need for a switch, no need to pull the legs of the capacitors).
As soon as you turn on your MP3 player the normal sound of the tape will cut off and you will hear the sound of the MP3 player.
The only disadvantage is that there must be a tape in the tape-deck otherwise the sound will be muted.
So I made a dummy tape (to spare the tape head). The two wheels are connected by a rubber band (elastic) and the mechanism that pushes the tape on the head is also removed.
When you switch from tape to radio you will still hear the sound of the tape for a split second but this doesn’t bother me.
Location of the Capasitor. c139, c140
Solder wires to backside
Tape with Rubberband around wheels
Parts remove that touch Tapehead